Tainan: A Guide to the Historic Capital

Tainan is Taiwan’s oldest city, and for two hundred years it was the capital. Today it’s the quiet counterpoint to Taipei: fewer skyscrapers, more temples, and a pace that invites you to eat slowly and sit a while. Anyone interested in culture and authentic food will find the heart of Taiwan here.

Most travellers reach it as a stop in the south, stay a day or two, and leave with a list of dishes they’d never heard of.

Getting around

The high-speed rail from Taipei arrives in about 90 minutes to two hours. The HSR station sits outside the centre, and from there a fast local train takes you into the historic core. The centre itself is compact and walkable, and you can move between the temples on foot.

What to see

Fort Zeelandia (Anping Fort) — a 17th-century Dutch fort, one of the country’s important historic sites, in the Anping district by the coast. Nearby is the Anping Tree House, an old warehouse swallowed over decades by banyan trees, roots climbing every wall.

Confucius Temple — Taiwan’s first temple of learning, from 1665, a quiet complex of red halls among the trees.

Chihkan Tower and Shennong Street — a historic tower on Dutch foundations, and an old lane restored into design shops, small bars, and cafés. Pleasant in the evening.

The food capital

If you eat one thing right in Taiwan, make it here. Tainan’s classics: danzai noodles, “coffin bread” (a hollow toast cube filled with a thick stew), shrimp rolls, and milkfish soup for breakfast. The good stalls keep odd hours, so ask locals. More in the food guide.

Where to stay

The most convenient base is the historic centre, around Chihkan Tower and the Confucius Temple: most of the sights and food are within walking distance. You can compare hotels in central Tainan ahead of time. You can also add a food or culture tour in Tainan.

From here you can return to the main guide or carry on to the itineraries.